SAMPLE
ENTRIES FROM DEVILSFOODDICTIONARY.COM:
8 January 2007
amuse-bouche From the French
word for "mouth," this is another name for the wind-up
chattering plastic teeth sold in some novelty stores.
It is
traditional in expensive French restaurants, on certain holidays, to glue a
set of these teeth shut with caramelized sugar and then
surreptitiously
submerge
them in a
tureen of hot soup. When the soup melts the caramel, the teeth begin to
chatter and bounce up and down
in
the dish, splashing the diners' clothing
with soup. Both customers and staff find this
very "amusing."
curing
A
time-consuming
process by which a food that started out raw (such as ham, cheese, or
fish) is painstakingly brought to a stage at which it is uncooked.
millet
A tiny,
protein-rich grain that is considered a staple in large areas of Asia
and Africa. This is because a paste made of millet will firmly hold
together the corners
of two
sheets of paper, much like the metal staple better known to
Westerners.
quinoa A venerable South American
grain named after the capital of Ecuador.
vitamins A range of nutritious elements
that were once found in many commonly
eaten foods, then disappeared from nearly all commonly eaten foods for
a
while,
and are
now once again found in commonly eaten foods by virtue of being
added as supplements or genetically engineered into them. Originally
given
women's names, like hurricanes, vitamins are currently designated
by the letters A, B, C, D, E, and K, with the less-appetizing F, G, H,
I, and J
understandably
omitted. It goes without saying that
foods from cultures that do not write in Roman letters, such as Chinese
and Arabic, contain no vitamins.
11
January 2007
fish sauce
A condiment much
used in Thailand, Vietnam, and the Philippines, made of the
liquid from fermented fish. A similar concoction called garum
was a
favorite
of the ancient Romans. They carried it to the farthest fringes of their
empire, where the Celtic tribes returned the favor by
creating
a sauce made of the liquid from fermenting Romans. Fish sauce imparts a
distinctly non-American character to any food,
and fans
of beans 'n' franks, for example, or key lime pie, will find it an unwelcome
addition to those dishes.
saffron
Tiny red
filaments that lend both flavor and color to such celebrated dishes as
France's bouillabaisse
and the Italian risotto alla Milanese.
Perhaps
the most famous vehicle for saffron is Spain's paella, which is fitting, since
that country supplies most of the world's stock of the
ingredient.
Saffron is often described as threadlike,
but this is a misnomer, since
it consists quite literally of threads. These
come--either
by
deliberate plucking or through abrasion due to wear-and-tear--from
the stout crimson rope, hundreds of kilometers long, that traces
the
traditional
pilgrimage route honoring St. James and terminating in the
Spanish city of Santiago de Compostela. By royal license
dating to
medieval times, only the nuns of the Convent of Santa
Zafarana are legally entitled to harvest saffron. But recent years have
seen a
troubling
rise in poaching, leaving the rope threadbare in spots, even
to the point of periodic breakage. One well-publicized break in
1992
caused a
group of Polish pilgrims to stray far off course, ending up at
a topless nightclub just outside Bilbao.
15 January 2007
comfort
food 1) Any type of
food that you would prefer your friends did not see
you enjoy; 2) the
fortifying, familiar, and satisfying
fare that
killed your grandparents. Note:
Comfort food's opposite, discomfort
food, is
outlawed by the Geneva Conventions.
Parmesan
cheese
A
northern
Italian cow's-milk cheese, popular on pasta, that becomes so dense and
heavy with aging that it eventually cannot be
moved. A
wheel of the most flavorful type, Parmigiano-Reggiano, is light enough to carry when
first produced, but within a year it easily
tops the
11,000-pound mark, requiring storage facilities constructed
atop pure bedrock. Transport is made possibly only by pulverizing
the
cheese with a diamond-tipped grating device or some sort of
explosive, and then shipping it in powdered form. Overall production of
Parmesan
is low,
since a single highly concentrated chunk provides a nearly
inexhaustible supply: A single wheel allotted to the country of Canada
in the
early 1970s, for example, is expected to meet the entire
population's needs for at least ten more years.
19 January 2007
marshmallow
A puffy, pillowy
sponge of springy stuff that, with all its sweet taste, snowy
whiteness, and lovely melting qualities over
a
campfire, cannot help but remind you of one thing or another. For an
idea of just how insubstantial the average marshmallow
is with
its air removed, consider the fact that only four times each
year, the entire supply of marshmallows for the western
United
States leaves the Pennsylvania factory in a single truck,
compressed into a globe roughly the size of a basketball that
weighs
some seven tons. Escorted by state troopers, the cargo makes its
way to a mammoth warehouse outside of Denver,
where, in
a kind of controlled detonation, the marshmallows are
released for packaging and final distribution. The awesome
amount of
energy unleashed in these sugary explosions has not gone
unnoticed by scientists, who speculate that the
advent of
the nonpolluting, marshmallow-powered automobile may be just
around the corner.
ragù
A thick
pasta
sauce containing ground meat. The tomato-heavy version known as
"Bolognese" is the world's most popular
pasta
sauce and perhaps Italy's chief export. At one time an elaborate
network of pipelines carried Bolognese sauce directly
from
the Emilia-Romagna region to nearly every European country.
But the system was dismantled in 1983, after a leak in northern
Germany
destroyed thousands of hectares of sensitive wetlands.
Subsequent legislation mandated that all Bolognese sauce be
biodegradable.
22 January 2007
citrus
fruit An
often-hybridized family that includes oranges, grapefruit, lemons,
limes, kumquats, clementines, citrons, tangerines, pomelos, tangelos, ugli
fruit,
lemrons, graperines, citfruit, clemtangs, kumelos, pomorangs,
limanges, quatfruit, grapelos, tangetrons, lemontines, ugclemps,
kumerines,
limoquats,
lemoquats, grapoquats, citroquats, clemoquats, pomoquats,
tangoquats, ugliquats, quats, fruitfruit, pomrons, quadroons, poontangs,
ugli
poontangs, pompoms, pomeranians, and sitcoms. Native to southern
and southeastern Asia, they were first brought by Arab traders to
Africa and
the
Middle East, then made their way to Europe during the Arab
occupation of Spain. Christopher Columbus carried citrus fruits to the
New World,
hoping to
trade them for gold, but was disappointed to find them
already there, transported eons before by visitors from another galaxy.
Faced
with
the
prospect of six tons of fruit rotting in his ship's hold, he
attempted to teach the making of refreshing ade drinks to the
local Taino Indians, along
with the
appropriate marketing skills. Alas, the natives lacked
the entrepreneurial
spirit, and the explorer's dream of a lucrative chain of lemonade
stands
down the length of the island of Hispaniola never
materialized. Columbus's supply of citrus fruit eventually spoiled, and
he died a broken man,
having
lost his zest for life.
fudge
A
cloyingly
sweet, pasty confection beloved by children. Fudge consists largely of
sugar; its nutritional value is often
enhanced by the addition
of
half a walnut. Fudge is made in many flavors, of which the
most popular by far is chocolate. Tied for least popular are
cartilage and WD-40®.
26 January 2007
celebrity
chef An
accomplished chef who, because his food's prices have reached their
conceivable upper limit, is forced to host TV series, appear on
culinary
cruises, and open proxy establishments in Las Vegas in order
to avoid income stagnation. Celebrity chefs are believed to have better
and more
frequent sex than regular chefs.
eel
Half fish
and
half snake (these proportions are reversed below the equator), the eel
is a source of rich, succulent meat enjoyed by many
nationalities,
though not Americans, who prefer peanut butter. Eels
have notoriously slippery skin, and a good deal of expertise is
required
when handling and butchering them. In countries such as Japan,
the slime
is removed mechanically, for use in the manufacture of okra.
egg
An ideal all-around food, the egg was first brought to Europe from the
New World by 16th-century Spanish explorers. There it rapidly
replaced
many venerable native European protein sources, such as
pinecones in Greece and tapestries in the Flemish courts. Delicious
and
adaptable to nearly any style of cooking, eggs sadly became extinct
shortly after the First World War.
30 January 2007
shad
Past tense of shid.
smorgasbord also smörgasbord;
smorgäsbord; smorgasbörd; smörgasbörd;
smörgäsbord; smorgäsbörd;
smörgäsbörd;
smörgäsbörrd
A lavish
Swedish
buffet traditionally consisting of four courses plus dessert. The first
course is always herring, the undisputed king of
Scandinavian
foods. This can
include pickled, smoked, and/or fried herring, as well
as pickled smoked herring, pickled fried herring, and fried smoked
herring.
The
second course moves on to other types of seafood, such as salmon in
herring sauce, herring-smoked eels, and jellied sprats (a relative of
the
herring).
Third come meats such as veal and beef in various delectable
forms, but the unpopularity of those dishes--owing to their lack of
herring--usually
results in their being donated to Somali refugee
centers. The fourth course features traditional hot dishes, such as
sprat gratin
(herring
can be substituted), baked onions stuffed with herring paste,
and/or meatballs molded in the shape of a herring (or a sprat). The
dessert lineup
is
enshrined in tradition and unfailingly includes herringberry coffee
cake, creamy cheesecake from which all herring (or sprat) bones have
been
painstakingly
removed, and s'mores,
the chocolate-marshmallow-graham cracker confection after which the
smorgasbord is named.
tuna Perhaps the king of all
edible saltwater fish, ranging in weight from
the single digits to as much as a thousand pounds. Excellent raw,
cooked in
any way,
or canned, this sleek, majestic, powerful animal is so
delicious that we have decided not to waste any of it on future
generations.
2 February 2007
bacalao
A type of dried,
salted cod popular in Italy, France, Spain, and the Caribbean. The
flavor of this fish, after rehydration by long
soaking
in water, is reminiscent of a combination of salt and cod.
fruits-and-vegetables
A highly
decorative component of the food spectrum that many people find
enjoyable, though it boasts only a fraction of the nutritive value
of
meat or
bran.
steak
tartare Also
known as tarte Tatin,
this is chopped or ground beef that is seasoned and served raw. The
modern version is accompanied by parsley,
onions,
and capers, but the dish's originators, the Central Asian
Tartars (or Tatars), insisted that another of their own inventions, tartar sauce, was the
only
appropriate condiment. Likewise, the only side dish they deemed
suitable was a potato preparation called Tatar Tots, the recipe for which has
unfortunately
been lost. Consumption of steak tartare by this
nomadic people declined when it was found to contribute to high levels
of dental tartar,
which the
Tartars sought to remedy with a primitive kind of toothpaste containing
cream of tartar,
which, incidentally, contains neither cream nor Tartars.
6
February 2007
cooking
The intentional
preparation of edible substances for human consumption. Dictionary
definitions usually link cooking with the use
of heat,
but this is misleading: A cook
is likely to prepare many dishes that require no "cooking." Indeed, a cook who would cook a
dish such
as sashimi, coleslaw, or trail mix would be considered a bad cook. Conversely, a
rabbit that accidentally fell into a
campfire
could end up cooked,
without anyone having cooked
it! Such distinctions are a source of endless fascination for gourmets.
All known
human cuisines can be seen as variations on three basic
approaches, namely, French cooking, Chinese
cooking,
and Indian cooking. The three are reducible to the following
formulas:
FRENCH COOKING: Fry a thing in
butter in a pan. Remove it and set it aside on a warm platter. Add wine
to the hot pan and boil, stirring, to
thicken.
Swirl an additional stick of butter into
the reduced liquid, and pour the liquid over the fried thing. Serve
with potatoes and wine; eat with silverware.
CHINESE COOKING: Cut a variety
of colorful things into small pieces. Heat a large quantity of oil in a
wok over high heat. Add the cut-up things
and stir
frantically. Add cornstarch solution,
stir again, and remove from the heat just before the colors fade. Serve
with rice and tea; eat with chopsticks.
INDIAN COOKING: Heat one cup
ghee in a pan. Add one cup chopped onions, one cup chopped garlic, one
cup chopped vegetables and/or
meat, and
one cup spices. Cook gently until
liquefied. Serve with rice or bread and yogurt; eat with fingers.
Given the
nearly limitless number of possible permutations and
combinations of these cooking styles, it is easy to see why food
writers
deserve far higher wages than they are currently being
paid.
squab
A very
young,
tender pigeon. Most squabs are slaughtered before they learn to fly,
eliminating the possibility of their ever becoming
courier squabs. The amount of
meat on a squab is meager, and disputes frequently erupt at the dinner
table over the choicest morsels.
These
conflicts are called squabbles.
9 February 2007
baguette
France's
contribution to the world of yard-long, narrow cylindrical breads with
crisp crusts, and a kind of universal symbol of
French
culture. A truly good baguette is extremely rare
outside France, probably because few other countries'
bicyclettes sport the kind of
basket in which a baguette is most photogenic.
The
seeming straightforwardness of this bread is deceptive: As many as
108 separate steps go into the production of a single
high-quality
baguette, some 60 of which are closely guarded
secrets of the Brotherhood of Crumbs and Heels, a French guild in
existence
since the Middle Ages. At-home baking of baguettes is
thus discouraged, as it invites both disappointing results and a visit
during the night
by the
Brotherhood's enforcers, known in France simply as "the men who
inflict pain."
Unlike
softer breads such as croissants and brioches, baguettes can
form hazardously sharp, jagged edges when torn and must be
handled
with care, particularly around les enfants. When bicycling,
always store a baguette in the basket or panier with the torn end
downward.
spoon,
wooden
A
rudimentary
utensil that was a fixture of every kitchen before the advent of the
ladle. Yesteryear's cooks faced many hazards,
but
perhaps the worst of them was the risk of poisoning due to
splinters from wooden spoons that had come into contact with uncooked
food.
Furthermore,
since wood's ignition point is far below that of most
foods, a wooden spoon was liable to simply burst into flames in the
midst of
stirring,
for example, a pot of cock-a-leekie. The wooden spoon's
demise leaves the modern kitchen a far safer place, and it is unlikely
to be missed. Relieved
cooks can
now turn their attention to the hundreds of bleeding deaths
caused annually by the jagged edges of torn baguettes.
12 February 2007
caviar
The edible roe
of various fish, including sturgeon, lumpfish, and salmon. Caviar
ranges in color and size from the tiny golden
Sterlet to
the huge Beluga (up to 2
inches in diameter), the latter of which is the rare, jet-black egg of
the Beluga whale. Caviar is highly
temperature-sensitive:
If not kept on a
bed of ice, the eggs have been known to hatch, quickly covering the
buffet table with wriggling minnows.
Even so,
the
outer membrane is quite tough, making a well-maintained caviar slicer a must for entertaining.
fugu
The
Japanese
name for any of the various blowfish or puffers. Fugu is considered a
delicacy, but it is a hazardous one:
The liver
and ovaries contain tetrodotoxin,
a poison so potent
that those organs must be removed before the fish can be served,
preferably before it has
even been
born.
Most Japanese are aware that only an officially licensed person may do
this; sadly, far fewer realize that
the license in question should
apply
specifically to preparation of
fugu--a podiatrist's license, for
example, or a manicurist's, will not do. Hundreds die each year as a
result of this
all-too-common
misunderstanding.
water A clear, odorless fluid
employed in cooking tofu "hot dogs." Water can also be used for
diluting cocktails.
16 February 2007
Foody
Guthrie Called the "Poet
Laureate of Potlikker" and the "Harmonizin' Homer of Hominy,"
folksinger Foody Guthrie (1905-1984) is
celebrated
for his well-crafted, plain-spoken songs in praise of the
American dinner table. Compositions such as "This Lamb Is Your Lamb,"
"Kaiser
Roll On Columbia," and "So Long, It's Been Good
to Know Ya Have Some Fish Sauce in the Pantry for When You're in the
Mood
for a
Stir-Fry" are pillars of the American
folk music canon. Guthrie's son Merlot (b. 1946) is a famous musician
in his own right, best known
for
another food-related
song, his 1967 hit, "Alicia's Luncheonette" ("Ain't a thing that you
can't get / At Alicia's Luncheonette").
microwave
oven
An
adaptation of
an outdated audio technology called the phonograph or record player, by which food placed
on a rotating
turntable
is cooked through exposure to a combination of whirring,
rumbling, and beeping noises.
20
February 2007
cinnamon
A spice
consisting of the reddish-brown, dried inner bark of a tree, which is
often ground into powder. For centuries
the
distinctive cinnamon taste was thought to be obtainable from only
two types of tree, Cinnamomum
zeylanicum and Cinnamomum
cassia, and indeed,
the fates of nations have hinged on trade in this commodity, with
countless lives lost. The recent discovery that
the inner
bark of virtually every
tree tastes
like cinnamon came as a bitter disappointment to many in the spice
business.
clove
A
nail-shaped,
brown flower bud used whole or ground as a spice. Individual
cloves have a powerful magnetic charge
and, if
not handled carefully, will collect in hard-to-manage clumps. They can
be kept apart by jamming them firmly into a canned ham.
peppercorn Once a rare commodity worth
their weight in gold, peppercorns are now so plentiful that they
constitute as much
as 18
percent of some urban landfills. They are considered highly
peppery and contain no corn.
23 February 2007
confit
Most commonly, a
piece of meat or poultry, such as a duck leg, that has been seasoned
and then cooked slowly in its own
fat. The
meat is cooled in the fat and left there,
preserving it and enhancing its flavor. Confit is in greater demand
among the svelte people of France
than on
this side
of the Atlantic, since at least one pair of legs encased in their own
fat is already a feature of nearly every
American household.
France
The
celebrated
European homeland of a people known for their preoccupation
with food. Before the arrival of the modern
French,
the area was occupied by Celts, called "Gauls" by their Roman rulers.
Not surprisingly, this period constituted France's gastronomical
Dark Ages
(the Celts' only known sauce at the
time was an emulsion of milk and wool). And indeed, the Celts,
eventually driven northwestward,
would add
to
their portfolio by stunting the culinary development of at least four
more countries, while attempting to make up for it
with their catchy
music.
The French talent for both preparing and enjoying food is
legendary,
and it is a given among scholars that French cooking might well
have
become the world's gold standard, if only the
Chinese had never been invented.
27 February 2007
broccoli
A nutritious,
dark-green cool-weather vegetable related to cabbage. Individual stalks
of broccoli bear a strong resemblance to
miniature
trees, each with a central "trunk" and an upper portion that
looks like a very dense cluster of leafy branches. Despite
this
similarity, it is not true that they can be tapped with tiny
spigots to make "broccoli syrup."
maize
An
intricate,
intentionally confusing network of pathways cut into a field of corn.
vanilla
The other flavor besides chocolate and
strawberry. Vanilla begins as a thin sap tapped from Madagascar's
vanilla trees in the
still-snowy
days of early spring, which is then reduced to its familiar
concentration by hours of boiling. This liquid
figures so prominently
in
Madagascarian culture that the national hockey team
is called the Antananarivo Vanilla Leafs, and a vanilla leaf adorns the
national flag.
2 March 2007
cooking
oil Since time
immemorial, foods have been cooked in oils that occur naturally in
various plants, nuts, seeds, etc. These oils--from common
ones such
as canola, olive, coconut, corn, almond, sunflower, sesame,
and peanut to lesser-known types like dandelion and plywood
oil--are
extracted either through chemical methods or by a combination
of heat and pressure. In their unadulterated state they
differ
greatly in taste, aroma, and other properties, and the
conscientious cook owes it to him/herself to know these differences.
What home
cooks seldom realize, however, is that all cooking oils (and
indeed animal fats as well) are so similar in molecular
structure
that they are easily convertible from one type to another.
The following recipes will enable a cook of any skill level to perform
some of
the most useful oil and fat conversions:
CORN OIL INTO CANOLA OIL: Soak
2 large canolas (approx. 3 pounds each) overnight in 1 gallon of corn
oil. Remove the
canolas
and stir in 3 drops of Dr. Scholl's Corn Remover and 1/2
teaspoon of dry vermouth. Makes 2 gallons.
SUNFLOWER OIL INTO TOASTED SESAME OIL:
Line a colander with 4 layers of cheesecloth. Fill it to the brim with
raw sesame
seeds,
and filter 1/2 gallon of sunflower oil through the seeds into a
saucepan. Warm the oil over medium heat. NOTE: For
color,
flavor, and aroma (optional), use a cotton swab to scour the
remaining 2-3 drops from a nearly empty sesame oil bottle.
Wring the
sesame oil from the cotton tip into the pan. Mix well and let
cool.
CRISCO® SHORTENING INTO
EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL: Liquefy 1 can of shortening in a food
processor. Add 1 bunch
of
organic Italian flat-leaf parsley and a jar of pimiento-stuffed
olives (well drained). Pulse until transparent.
COCONUT OIL INTO LARD: Soak 5
pounds of sweet potatoes in 3 quarts of coconut oil. Sprinkle 2 cups of
dark brown sugar and
1/2 pound
of golden raisins over the mixture. Feed every day for 6 to 7
months. Butcher and render by the standard methods.
6 March 2007
omelet pan
A
pan somewhat
larger than an omelet, often with an omelet in it.
omelet-and-sausage
pan A
pan somewhat larger than an OMELET PAN, but smaller
than an OMELET-SAUSAGE-AND-FRIED-POTATOES PAN.
lobster
Probably
the
best-known member of the lobster family, and very likely the animal
after which that family is named. The lobster is a
crustacean,
with flesh as succulent as--and to some people more delicious
than--that of its cousin the prawn. But getting to that meat, while
rewarding,
can be difficult: As a
defense mechanism, the lobster adopts a "playing dead" posture after
about five minutes in rapidly boiling water,
including
a
chameleonlike change in the color of its shell. It is said to be
capable of maintaining this immobile state almost indefinitely.
Early
European arrivals in North America reported finding lobsters six
feet in length along the northern Atlantic Coast.
The
lobsters, on the other hand, put the colonists at about
five-foot-six, tops.
16 March 2007
fig Known as "Nature's
racy metaphor," the fig is a luscious tree fruit that, at its ripest
and most succulent, has a disreputable air of
wantonness and
sensuality. Figs can be dried
into a tasty, durable snack food or incorporated, either dried or
fresh, into works of fiction.
Adam and
Eve are said to have employed fig leaves to "cover their shame" after
their expulsion from Eden. Sometime later,
their son Cain murdered
his brother Abel
after the latter publicly joked that a whole leaf was
not
necessary to cover Cain's shame, but merely a single fig.
genetically engineered
foods Food plants or
animals subjected to innovative scientific techniques that introduce
characteristics across
species
lines, in ways that could not occur under natural conditions.
Genetic engineering began as a response to widespread complaints
from
consumers that supermarket tomatoes simply
didn't contain enough flounder genes. Obliging researchers soon
remedied that problem,
and by
the first few
years of the 21st century the list of GE (also called GM, genetically
modified) foods had expanded to include canola, corn,
papaya,
soybeans,
beets, and even salmon. Sadly, the march toward the glorious future
promised by genetic
engineering was interrupted in
November
2006, when all the scientists involved were suddenly
transported by legions
of cackling, scaly demons straight to Hell.
20
March 2007
Marx, Groucho
American
comedian (1895-1977) who, when inviting the blond bombshell up to his
room in the film
A
Day at the Races
(1937) with the line,
"We could have a midnight snack--a nice little steak between us," may
not have been referring to beef.
orzo
A type of
small
pasta named after the least-known of cinema's Marx
Brothers, who was reportedly very fond of it. Ira
"Orzo" Marx died in 1963.
terroir
Properties of a particular plot of land or region that
are thought to influence the character of that land's animal and
vegetable products. Many
factors
influence terroir,
including soil acidity,
average annual precipitation (the so-called "rain of terroir"),
and proximity to Chernobyl.
23
March 2007
Irish stew
An
earthy
traditional dish based on a small number of basic ingredients, namely
potatoes, onions, and mutton. Irish
stew is
known for the narrow band of the color spectrum that it
occupies, extending from, roughly, whitish to grayish. It
was not
always this drab: The original version, believed to have
migrated with the Celts from the south of France,
featured
more colorful ingredients, but the loss of these to successive
famines necessitated the substitution of
whatever
products remained available, however dreary in appearance. The
potato, for example, was introduced only
in the
wake of the Great Tomato Famine of 1712. The ruinous 1779 Great
Fish Famine, followed by the devastating Great
Shellfish
Famine two years later, led to mutton's
inclusion in place of a rich assortment of seafood. Onions found their
way into
the
recipe after the catastrophic Great
Garlic Famine of 1825. Even salt and pepper might not have entered the
picture had it not been for the
Great
White Wine
and Saffron Famine of 1839. As for olive oil, lost to its own famine in
the mid-1840s, it was simply never replaced.
As if
Ireland had not suffered enough, one final indignity remained, in
the form of the Great Dishware Famine of 1882, which forced
peasants
to eat the now-pallid stew out of their bare
hands. For many of them this was the last straw, and a final wave of
emigration
left the
island nearly uninhabited. Happily,
conditions are much improved since then, and Ireland and its people are
now optimistic, prosperous,
and well
fed. In a
holdover from leaner times, however, it is still customary for foreign
visitors to that country to pack a lunch.
27
March 2007
pâté
A cooked sausage
that is not stuffed into a casing. Experts in topology, a branch of
mathematics related to geometry, tell us
that in
the absence of external boundaries delineated by a
casing, a pâté could be produced that is, at least
hypothetically speaking, infinitely
large.
All agree that this would be difficult to
do. Probably not as difficult, though, as breeding an infinitely large CORNICHON to serve on the
side.
cornichon The dyspeptic runt of the pickle
world. Cornichons are pimply, anemic, laughably puny cucumbers that
undergo a painstaking
process
of marination aimed at replacing any discernible flavor with a
monochromatic sourness. They are considered a flattering accompaniment
to
PÂTÉ, as well as various meats and
fish. In fact, it is fair to say that after a bite of cornichon, nearly
anything will taste delicious, even GNOCCHI made with LINT.
lint
A common
household substance that is rarely, if ever, used to make GNOCCHI.
gnocchi Small
Italian dumplings that can be made of potatoes or flour, but rarely, if
ever, of such ingredients as LINT.
People with
highly
discerning palates are said to be able to distinguish between
good gnocchi and bad ones.
30
March 2007
tea
A beverage made
by
steeping leaves of the shrub Camellia
sinensis in hot water.
Tea is
available in a wide variety of types,
but the
precise correspondence between flavor and price can be
difficult to determine. For example, a very rare Asian tea, worth
hundreds
of dollars a pound, may have virtually no taste at all,
although it does boast a lovely fragrance and lends the water an
attractive
weedy tint. The more robust "black" tea, frequently drunk
with milk and sugar, has been a staple of life in Great
Britain
since the 18th century, often constituting the very first drink
an Englishman reached for after his morning gin-and-tonic.
tisane
A popular type of steeped beverage that Americans call "herb tea."
Tisanes contain flowers, spices, and other
herbaceous
ingredients (known in culinary circles as "lawn clippings"),
but no actual tea leaves and thus no caffeine.
This
provides an effective safeguard against flavor, alertness, and
scintillating conversation.
X
The number of ingredients in the ancient Romans' famous
Ten-Ingredient Casserole.
6
April 2007
caramel A sweet, sticky brown
substance that oozes from the skin of an apple and provides a water-
and shock-resistant
shield for the crisp,
juicy interior. The fruit's natural caramel
coating can make it messy to hold; remedies for this include
wrapping the apple in
a dry, nontoxic jacket of chopped nuts and
inserting a stick into its core.
polenta A
finely ground northern Italian cornmeal mush that was little known by
Americans before 1937, the year blues singer
Leadbelly recorded
his million-selling "Po-Lenter (Where You Been So
Long?)." It has remained little-known ever since.
sweet, sour, salty,
bitter Once considered,
simply, the four flavors, these underwent a change in status following
the Western world's discovery
of umami, the so-called fifth
flavor. They are now correctly referred to as "the first four flavors," "the four
Caucasian flavors," or "umami's little helpers."
10
April 2007
barbecue
An extremely
vague
term for one or another of several approaches to cooking one or another
type of food, usually
meat
except when it is something else, which make use of one or another
cooking technique that most often involves smoke, though not
always,
and in which a sauce of one sort or another plays either an
essential, a prominent, or a negligible role. Barbecue has a nearly
fanatical
following
in North America, particularly in the southern United States,
where it carries a lore rich in history, culture, and the sort of
factionalism
that can
often lead to gunplay. Indeed, history documents
some legendary feuds over what constituted "authentic" barbecue, most
of which
ended
with the victors slowly roasting their vanquished
enemies over hickory, cherry, or mesquite embers (depending on the
state where the
conflict
took place) and then basting or dipping them in a
sauce that was either sweet, vinegary, or spicy (also depending on
location),
and
serving them with white bread at stock-car races.
jerk seasoning A
spice blend from Jamaica, used to flavor grilled meat and poultry. It
is named for
its inventor, Chef Winston Walcott (1892-
1961) of
Kingston's Palm Grove Hotel, who was, by all accounts, "a real
jerk."
Swede A
globular root vegetable named after the rutabaga. Famous rutabagas have
included Alfred Nobel and the filmmaker Ingmar Bergman.
13
April 2007
appetizer;
starter The first course
of a meal and, in better restaurants, the one most likely to be smaller
than its garnish.
hors d'oeuvre
An appetizer that is eaten standing up.
entrée
A French word whose definition differs from one region of the world to
another. In the United States, for example, it is applied to the
main
course of a meal, while in certain areas of the Pacific Ocean,
among certain large seagoing mammals, it refers to vast shoals of krill.
snack
A small quantity of food eaten at any hour of the day or night, not for
enjoyment or the fulfillment of some kind of craving, but strictly in
the
interest of good health: A stomach not kept in a state of continual
readiness by frequent snacking may prove incapable of efficiently
digesting
the upcoming meal. Of all the types of food that can be used
to accomplish this, the category most highly recommended by scientists
is
"crisp, salty fried things in a bag."
17 April 2007
salt
The
nearly
universal food seasoning, a crystal found both in vast underground
deposits and dissolved in seawater, and a nutrient necessary
to human
life. The word salary is
derived from the
Latin word for salt, owing to the salty tears shed by Roman centurions
every payday when
they
realized how little of their pay remained once deductions were
made to buy food seasonings. The words salad, salami, and sauce also
have
"salt"
as their root. Salesgirl, saloon, and sailfish do not.
Salt is
celebrated as a food preservative as well as a flavoring agent.
Indeed, many items purchased from fast-food restaurants are so intensely
salty
that an unaccustomed eater would find them inedible, which would
result in their preservation, probably in the original packaging.
Overall,
salt is
of vital importance to the fast-food industry, whose fare, in
the absence of generous salting, would taste like what it is actually
made of.
For the
home cook, salt is simple to use and presents few challenges.
Those doing the eating, on the other hand, face a trickier situation:
Care must
be taken
not to invert the salt shaker before it is positioned directly
above the food to be seasoned. Stains to clothing or tablecloths from
spilled
salt are
removable only by vigorous rubbing with mulberry juice or a
paste made of turmeric and red wine. Preempt the creation of salt marks
in the
first
place by having a magnet handy for picking up stray grains before
they have a chance to stain.
20
April 2007
focaccia
An oiled, salted
Italian bread whose name would be much harder to pronounce if it were
spelled cfacciocai.
foie gras The
greatly enlarged liver of a duck or goose that has been force-fed for
four to five months. Rich and delicious, foie gras underwent a
decline
in popularity at the beginning of the 21st century due to the
efforts of animal rights activists, only to have its fortunes reversed
when a
French
veterinarian produced a duck liver so large it could be
transplanted into human beings.
mandoline A
device for thinly slicing vegetables. Favored by French cooks, this is
one of a large body of culinary materials whose names evoke
musical
associations. They include the Italian chitarra
(a pasta-making apparatus), the champagne flute, fiddlehead ferns,
chicken drumsticks,
'cellophane
noodles, bell peppers, key limes, organ meats, and, of
course, beans ("the musical fruit").
RETURN TO FROGCHART
PRESS